If you had to trace back the worldwide boom of Peruvian cuisine to one man, it would be Gastón Acurio. After graduating from Le Cordon Bleu Paris, where Gastón met his wife, Astrid Gutsche, the couple returned to Peru in 1994 and founded their flagship restaurant, Astrid y Gastón.
Though originally opened as a French restaurant, Gastón realised the importance of Peruvian cuisine. Following this, he began to experiment with traditional Peruvian ingredients from every corner of Peru. Through combining European techniques with Peruvian ingredients, a gastronomic revolution took place in the country, giving birth to Novo-Andean cuisine.
As a result of the couple’s hard work and contributions to gastronomy, they have won numerous awards. For instance, Latin America’s Best Pastry Chef Award went to Astrid in 2015 and the Lifetime Achievement Award at The World’s 50 Best Restaurants went to Gastón in 2018. Currently, in 2021, the flagship restaurant Astrid y Gastón sits at No. 4 in Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants.
Table of Contents
The Menu
The restaurant offers both a la carte and a tasting menu, titled “El Reencuentro Experience” which I opted for. Translating to “The Reunion”, this menu celebrates the great Peruvian pantry and the fishermen, farmers and artisans who help make the menu possible.
Over the course of eleven dishes and one cocktail, the menu reflects Gastón’s life from the beginning of his career in Europe to his return to Peru, showcasing food from all over Peru.
1 – Welcome Cocktail “Yacuruna”
Named after the mythical water people of the Amazon basin, the Yacuruna cocktail was made from a variety of fruits native to the Amazon.
2 – Pizzetta of Mashuas and Huarochiri Cheese
With a buttery and flaky puff pastry crust, this pizzetta was the perfect combination of earthy and salty flavours. The beet-like flavours from thinly sliced mashua and blue cheese flavours from the Huarochiri cheese sauce were calmed slightly by the freshness of the huacatay (Peruvian black mint) leaves.
3 – Southern Crab Chawanmushi with Chalaquita
Moving into Nikkei cuisine territory, this chawanmushi (Japanese set egg custard) was like a silky flan made from crab juices. Coriander and chilli oil brightened the dish. At the centre was a topping of southern crab meat and chalaquita. Chalaquita is a mixture of finely diced shallots, chilli and coriander which gave a nice acidity that cut through the richness of the crab chawanmushi.
4 – Sea Party
Natural Blue Clam from Tacna, Barnacles in Escabeche from Punta Balcones, Matured Fish
Three different bites in one dish! Firstly, a raw blue clam, tasting like a fresh oyster with a zingy lime sauce and chalaquita. Secondly, a slice of matured fish, with an almost sesame flavour and a texture almost like a really tender steak. Finally, and my favourite of the three was a really pretty dish of barnacles in escabeche, a Peruvian fish soup. The barnacles were sweet and tender, but the star of the show was that escabeche. It had such a deep smoky seafood flavour, I could have had another bowl of that.
5 – Sole Fish Olive’s Style Ceviche
This was like a refined version of classic ceviche. Using the freshest sole caught off the coast of Peru, this ceviche was the perfect balance of citrus and fish. Drops of olive oil and coriander oil decorated the dish, and the fried garlic topping added a satisfying crunch.
6 – Sea Dumpling Stuffed with Grilled Pisco Clams
An unassuming parcel of amazing fishy goodness. This dumpling wrapper made from jungle squid enveloped a smooth and smoky filling of grilled scallops. More chalaquita finished the dish for an extra bit of bite and freshness.
7 – Vegetable Meatball with Suckling Pig Stock
The peas added an interesting mouthfeel to the meatball. But, the stock really made the dish, coating your mouth with such rich and smoky flavours of slow-roasted suckling pig.
8 – Grilled Shrimp “Memories of Picanteros”
In Arequipa, there are Picanterias, traditional family-run lunchtime restaurants that specialise in regional dishes, passed down over generations. This dish was a homage to the times that Gastón spent in Arequipa, with a take on “Chupe de Camarones”, a Peruvian Shrimp Chowder. The thick sauce consisted of chillies, river shrimp and cecina, a dried sausage that gave the sauce a smoky and full-bodied flavour.
9 – Striped Shells from Tumbes with Stewed Beans from the Northern Countryside
A silky and spicy scallop and bean stew, coloured yellow by the aji amarillo pepper. The dashes of coriander oil and chalaquita added a contrasting acidity and herbal spice that cut through the stew’s richness.
10 – Angus Filet Mignon, Corn Pepian from Guadalupe, with Olluco Pickles
Next up was a tender and buttery steak served on a velvety corn puree. This corn puree was a refined take on Pepian de Choclo, a traditional corn stew from the Northern Peruvian city of Guadalupe. Accompanying the steak was a side of pickled olluco tubers, which added a bright tang and crunch to the dish.
11 – Custard Apple Marinated with Gin, Cucumber Slushy, Sherbet and White Wine
Starting off the dessert courses was a cooling dish centred around the custard apple also known as chirimoya. Underneath a smooth chirimoya sorbet were chunks of the fruit in a cinnamon-spiced white wine and gin syrup. The cucumber slushy gave a refreshing balance to the rich, tropical chirimoya flavours and the sweetness of the syrup.
12 – Chocolate and Carob
Finally, we are at the last dish and what a way to end it. In what seems to be traditional Peruvian fashion, we ended with a dish celebrating cacao! A cold and luxurious chocolate ice cream sat atop a chocolate sponge, filled with a warm gooey centre and decorated in a honey-like carob syrup. After taking one bite, you experience the perfect harmony between cold ice cream and a hot and rich chocolatey sponge. One of the best dishes of the night.
The Experience
As I stepped out of my Uber, I was taken aback by the grand architecture of Astrid y Gastón. Was I underdressed? I reassured myself that Peruvian fine dining is a relaxing and casual experience and walked in with the same trousers and shirt I used for trekking the Amazon rainforest. I was right, the staff were very welcoming and within a few minutes of sitting, I was given my “Yacuruna” welcome cocktail.
There was a noticeable pause between receiving the cocktail and the food courses beginning. But, once the meal started, the timing of the dishes was like a well-executed dance.
Closing Thoughts
In short, this is the flagship restaurant that put Peruvian cuisine on the global stage. In addition to telling stories from Gastón’s life, the menu also helps you appreciate the entire journey of the food from the source to the table. This is helped by the waiter explaining how each food came to be on the plate and how moments in Gastón’s life influenced these dishes. Overall, my favourite dishes were the deep, smoky barnacles escabeche, the inventive squid dumpling filled with clams and that amazing chocolate and carob dessert that was like a true mouthgasm.
Pricing and Details
“El Reencuentro Experience” plus water and one additional cocktail: £79 / $108 / s/421
Address: Av. Paz Soldan 290, San Isidro 15073, Peru
Book here: http://en.astridygaston.com/
Looking for Accommodation near Astrid y Gaston?
There are 2 main neighbourhoods that we recommend staying in when visiting Astrid y Gaston and Lima; Barranco and Miraflores.
Barranco Recommendations
The bohemian district of Lima, filled with vibrant street art, cliff-side bars and boutique hotels.
- Budget: Kokopelli Hostel Barranco – Mixed Dorm, S/.56 / £12 / $15
- Mid-Range: Casa Fanning Hotel – 1-Bed Apartment, S/.140 / £30 / $37
- Luxury: 3B Barranco’s B&B – Standard Double Room, S/.233 / £50 / $62
Miraflores Recommendations
The upscale neighbourhood of Lima. Here you’ll find luxury hotels, beautiful parks lining the cliffs and high-end shopping experiences. This district is closer to Astrid y Gaston’s home district, San Isidro.
- Budget: Llaqta Wasi – Mixed Dorm, S/.37 / £8 / $10
- Mid-Range: Hotel Andesmar – Queen Room, S/.160 / £34 / $42
- Luxury: JW Marriot Hotel Lima – Deluxe Room with Ocean View, S/.990 / £210 / $260
Thanks for reading!
If you liked this restaurant review, be sure to check out these reviews of other top Peruvian restaurants Central and Maido!
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