How to Drive the Mae Hong Son Loop [2022 Guide]

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The Mae Hong Son Loop is one of the most popular road trips you can do in North Thailand. And, if you’ve got the time it’s well worth it! The loop, starting and ending in Chiang Mai, winds its way along mountain valleys, visiting all manner of towns, temples, canyons and caves. Oh, and the food here is probably some of the most diverse in Thailand.

mae hong son sunset
Sunset over Mae Hong Son

What’s the Mae Hong Son Loop Route?

The Mae Hong Son Loop starts and finishes in Chiang Mai and visits 4 main destinations; Mae Sariang, Mae Hong Son, Pang Mapha and Pai. Some people choose to visit Pai first, doing the loop anti-clockwise, but if you want a break from the tourists for a few days, head to Mae Sariang first.

The Loop is just as much about the journey as it is about the destinations. So, if you can help it make sure to stop along the way between the towns to take in the scenery, attractions and some Iced Thai Tea.

Mae Hong Son Loop Google Maps Route Overview
Mae Hong Son Loop

How Long Does it Take?

This itinerary takes 7 days to complete. The itinerary takes you to the following destinations; Mae Sariang, Mae Hong Son and Pai but also adds in Pang Mapha which is famous for its caves.

The itinerary has you spend 1 night in Mae Sariang and Pai, and 2 nights in Mae Hong Son and Pang Mapha. Mae Hong Son and Pang Mapha have a lot more to offer so we found spending a full day there was a great way to explore the area.

It is possible to drive the loop in 4 days if you’re not interested in seeing all of the sights and it’s often done if you’re tight on time. This would mean spending 1 night in Mae Sariang, 1 night in Mae Hong Son, skipping Pang Mapha and spending the final night in Pai before heading back to Chiang Mai.

Alternatively, if you have lots of time you can spend longer at each of the destinations on the Loop.


How to Get Around: Motorbike, Car, Hitchhike or Bus?

Songthaews lined up in chiang mai
Chiang Mai Songthaews (Image Credit: @alessionord)

There are 3 main ways to get around and a bonus 4th if you’re really adventurous. When making your choice, bear in mind that the roads can be tricky, especially for beginner drivers. They are windy roads, with a lot of steep ascents and descents and other cars and bikes on the road will happily try and overtake you, sometimes at slightly questionable points.

But anyway, here are the options:

Motorbike / Scooter (Average Cost Per Day: ฿250 / $7.25 / £5.80):

Most people choose this option. It’s cheaper than using a car or public transport and you have complete freedom as to where you want to stop on the Mae Hong Son Loop. But, keep in mind that most days you’re driving more than 5 hours which can be pretty tiring on a bike if you’re not used to it.

Car (Average Cost Per Day: ฿700 / $20 / £16):

The luxury option. The drive is tough, so why not do it in the comfort of a car. Seats that don’t make your bum numb, radio, A/C, easier navigation, there are so many pros to this option. You’ll meet some people on the loop that are adamant that a motorbike is the only real way to do the loop, but who cares, you can go faster than them. The only real con to this option is the price, but if you can get other travellers to split the cost, it can end up almost as cheap, if not cheaper than renting a bike.

Public Transport (Average Cost Per Day: ฿70 / $2 / £1.60):

Significantly cheaper than a motorbike or a car, this is a popular option with people that don’t want to bother with the stressful experience of driving the loop. The main con of this option is your lack of freedom on where to stop on the route. You’ll be able to visit each of the main towns like Mae Sariang, Mae Hong Son, Pai and some of the ones in between, but visiting places like Pha Chor Canyon or Ban Rak Thai will be more difficult. We don’t have a ton of experience with this option, but this blog covered it well.

Hitchhiking (Average Cost Per Day: Potentially Free):

Another popular option if you don’t want to deal with renting a bike or car. You are at the mercy of the local people, but luckily many people drive the roads here and the hitchhiking culture in Thailand is good. People in the region are friendly to hitchhikers and we heard from hitchhikers that we met on the road that it usually doesn’t take longer than 10 minutes to find a ride. The drivers don’t usually expect money, so it’s up to you if you want to give them something.

Our Choice: Car

We ended up driving the Mae Hong Son Loop by car. We could split the cost between the 2 of us, so it didn’t cost that much more than the motorbike. Plus, we got the extra comfort of A/C and being able to blast out tunes on the route. When negotiating the rental price, make sure to say “If I rent the car for X amount of days, can I get a discount” – this helped us reduce our car’s daily rental price from ฿900 to ฿700.

We rented our car at Chiang Mai Car Rental. The experience was super easy, we turned up the day before we wanted to do the loop to pick up our car. Then, the day we left, they drove the car over to our hostel. They’re also happy to extend your rental period whilst you’re on the road.


When’s the best time? (The burning season isn’t actually that bad)

The best time to drive the Mae Hong Son Loop is November to January. The weather is cold (for Thailand) and dry so the roads are in good condition. If you have the chance make sure to go in the last 2 weeks of November, as the flowers are in full bloom – especially the Mexican Sunflowers at Thung Bua Tong Fields, a highlight of many on the loop.

February to April are still dry and good times to do the loop, but this is also when the region’s “burning season” takes place. During these months, the farmers burn back their crops, releasing smoke into the air. This can make the views on the loop less impressive as they’re slightly obscured by the smoke. Sometimes the season has been so bad that people recommend wearing a mask at all times.

However, we did the loop in March and whilst the view in the distance seemed a little hazy, we didn’t have any trouble breathing.

The wet season runs from May to October and it’s usually not recommended to tackle the loop during this time if you’re not an experienced driver. The rain can make the roads slippery, increasing the chance of more accidents. And, if you’re outside all the time it can be pretty miserable.


Mae Hong Son Loop 7-Day Itinerary

Day 1: Drive from Chiang Mai to Mae Sariang. On the way explore Pha Chor Canyon and Mae Ya Waterfall.

Day 2: Leave Mae Sariang early and head for Mae Hong Son. Check out the sunflower fields, Mae Surin waterfalls and spectacular viewpoints along the route before arriving in Mae Hong Son.

Day 3: Explore Mae Hong Son and the surrounding area. Highlights include Ban Rak Thai, the Bamboo Bridge and Pang Oung park.

Day 4: A short drive from Mae Hong Son to Pang Mapha, giving you time to explore the famous Tam Lot cave in the afternoon.

Day 5: Spend the day in Pang Mapha. Go on a cave tour or try trekking or even kayaking.

Day 6: Head on to Pai. The short journey gives you almost a full day to spend in Pai visiting the sights like Pai Canyon and the Big Buddha Statue.

Day 7: The final drive back to Chiang Mai. Stop at a quirky witch house for coffee and check out the sticky waterfalls.

Alternative Day 7: Continue with the Mae Salong Loop by heading to Chiang Dao!


Day 1: Chiang Mai to Mae Sariang (Distance: 239 km / Driving Time: 5 hr)

It’s probably your first time driving in Thailand, so what better place to start than in Chiang Mai. If you’re not used to driving around South-East Asia, take it easy, especially at the start whilst you’re still getting out of Chiang Mai.

Like most of the days, there’s a decent amount of driving so we suggest starting early (around 8/9 am) so you can be flexible with how long you spend at each of the stops along the way.

Chiang Mai to Mae Sariang, First Day of Mae Hong Son Loop
Google Maps Route / Distance: 239 km / Driving Time: 5 hrs
Stop 1: Cool Formations at Pha Chor Canyon (1 hr 5 min / 52 km)

Some people refer to Pha Chor Canyon as the Grand Canyon of Thailand. It’s not quite that but it’s still interesting enough to stop at. There’s a short walk from the tourist centre that takes you up a dry stream, where there are information boards about how the area formed. Eventually, you reach the main site of the canyon; cliffs and pillars with interesting patterns “tower” around you.

The tourist centre also has a coffee and snack shop if you’re in the mood for some Thai tea.

pha chor canyon on mae hong son loop
Pha Chor Canyon
Stop 2: Mae Ya Waterfall (53 min / 40 km)

Mae Ya Waterfall was one of my favourite waterfalls on the trip and not too far from Pha Chor Canyon. The waterfall is really wide and has multiple levels that you can climb up. Even in the dry season, there’s a really good amount of water. There aren’t many places to swim here, but it’s fun seeing how high up the waterfall you can get.

Mae Ya waterfall on mae hong son loop
Mae Ya Waterfall
Stop 3: Coffee Break at Young Folk Bean & Brew (25 min / 14 km)

This was a cool little place we found on Google Maps whilst we were looking for a place to stop and have lunch. At Young Folk Bean & Brew, you don’t get the typical panoramic view that’s typical of other coffee shops on the loop, but the location is still really pleasant. The place is stylish and has some interesting drink names like “The Hulk” and “Thank You Teacher”. They’ve also got many different types of cakes, tarts and biscuits that are worth trying.

Stop 4: Nice Viewpoint at ร้านเกอเจ่อโค่ อาหาร&กาแฟสด ชนเผ่า (1 hr 30 min / 99 km)

You can probably continue straight on to Mae Sariang, but we don’t really like driving for longer than an hour and a half if we can help it. This coffee shop, situated next to Huai Kung viewpoint has decent drinks and a great view, perfect before the final leg to Mae Sariang.

Finish: Mae Sariang (35 km / 40 min)

Day 1: Mae Sariang Guide

A small but charming stopover on the way from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son. There isn’t a ton of things to do in this town, which is why we only recommend staying 1 night if you’re on a tight schedule.

Evening Activities:

After driving all the way from Chiang Mai to Mae Sariang and stopping off at the likes of Pha Chor Canyon and Mae Ya Waterfall, it will probably be quite late in the day. So, we recommend just checking in to your hotel and heading out for food!

Morning Activities:

Before you set off for Mae Hong Son, there are a few temples you can visit. We ended up visiting Wat Phrathat Chom Mon which gives you great views overlooking Mae Sariang and the surrounding rice fields.

Golden Buddha and a guardian statue overlooking Mae Sariang
Buddha at Wat Phrathat Chom Mon

Where to Stay in Mae Sariang?

In Mae Sa-Riang there aren’t many accommodation options. The three that easily stand out are “Mae Sa-Riang Home”, “Riverhouse Hotel (The Teak House)” and “Above the Sea Guesthouse”.

For Solo Travellers
For Couples

Twin Rooms are also available for all of the above options.


Day 2: Mae Sariang to Mae Hong Son (Distance: 239 km / Driving Time: 5 hr)

Continuing on from Mae Sariang it’s time to head to Mae Hong Son City, one of my favourite destinations in Thailand and the capital of the province. But, just before we get there there are a few stops along the way to check out.

Mae hong son loop day 2 google maps route overview
Google Maps Route / Distance: 239 km / Driving Time: 5 hrs
Stop 1: Morning Coffee Break at Lan View Coffee (70 km / 1 hr 15 min)

After checking out the Mae Sariang temples, it’s best to make some ground on the journey to Mae Hong Son. Lan View Coffee is a good way to break up the day’s journey, situated roughly halfway between Mae Sariang and the second stop of the day, Thung Bua Tong Fields.

Stop 2: Thung Bua Tong Fields at Doi Mae U Kho (53.5 km / 1 hr 5 min)

Sunflowers, sunflowers and more sunflowers! Throughout the year the Thung Bua Tong Fields viewpoint provides great views over the surrounding landscape, but if you want to see the view covered in sunflowers, make sure you visit in the last 2 weeks of November.

thung bua tong fields
Thung Bua Tong Fields in March
Stop 3: Mae Surin Waterfall (8.7 km / 15 min)

A little further on from Thung Bua Tong Fields is Mae Surin Waterfall, a 100m high waterfall. The waterfall isn’t too impressive as its viewpoint is quite far away, but if you’ve visited Thung Bua Tong then you may as well check it out as it’s in the area.

mae surin waterfall photo from faraway
Mae Surin Waterfall
Stop 4: Lunch in Khun Yuam at Katin’s Kitchen (37.7 km / 53 min)

There aren’t a whole lot of food options in Khun Yuam, but we found Katin’s Kitchen to be pretty decent. The food is freshly cooked so service can take a while, but for the price, it’s really good and tasty. We recommend the deep-fried catfish.

Stop 5: Pha Bong Viewpoint (50.6 km / 57 min)

From Katin’s Kitchen to Mae Hong Son it’s only about 68 km, but one of the best parts about the Mae Hong Son Loop is the coffee shops so why not stop off at another great one with a great view. Check out Cafe Kuplai Khan at Pha Bong Viewpoint.

Finish: Mae Hong Son (18 km / 22 min)

Days 2 and 3: Mae Hong Son Guide

Mae Hong Son is a melting pot of different cultures and their influences can be seen throughout the city and the surrounding region. This city is not just home to Thai and Burmese people, but a majority of the population is made up of various hill tribes and ethnic groups from the area.

Wats next to the lake in Mae Hong Son at sunset
Chong Kham and Chong Klang
Day 2 Evening Activities:

You’ll probably have arrived in Mae Hong Son tired and some time in the early evening. So, it’s best to save the main attractions for tomorrow when you’ll have a full day to explore.

For a cheap dinner, we recommend checking out the night market next to the Nong Kham Lake in the centre of town. Alternatively, for a slightly more expensive dinner that offers more regional Thai dishes, try out Bai Fern Restaurant.

After dinner, the twin wats of Chong Kham and Chong Klang sit on the side of Nong Kham Lake. The wats are lit up at night, making for a nice picture.

Day 3 Activities: Bamboo Bridges, Royal Parks, Ban Rak Thai and More! (Distance: 110 km / Driving Time: 3 hr 4 min)

This is a pretty action-packed day and one of my favourites on the Mae Hong Son Loop. This itinerary explores all of the main sights around Mae Hong Son, something we really recommend doing.

Activity Map for Mae Hong Son
Google Maps Route / Distance: 110 km / Driving Time: 3 hr 4 min
Stop 1: Breakfast at a Local Shan Restaurant (1.4 km / 4 min)

This little restaurant, Khao Sen Ba Kon (ข้าวเส้นป้าคนธ์), is located in Mae Hong Son City so it’s an easy stop before setting off. They serve Khao Sen, a rice noodle dish with beef in a tomato sauce alongside these really tasty and crispy papaya fritters. The place was recommended in a Mark Wiens. video – we tried it out and it was great!

khao sen in mae hong son
Khao Sen Breakfast
Stop 2: Su Tong Pae Bamboo Bridge and Wat Tham Poo Sa Ma (11 km / 15 min)

On the outskirts of Mae Hong Son City, this bamboo bridge connects locals in the village of Ban Gung Mai Sak to the monks of Wat Tham Poo Sa Ma. The bridge stretches across rice fields, leading up to a temple which is also worth a look around.

bamboo bridge in mae hong son
Su Tong Pae Bamboo Bridge
Stop 3: Pha Suae Waterfall (15.3 km / 22 min)

A short drive north of the bamboo bridge is Pha Suea National Park, home to Pha Suae Waterfall and Tham Pla, a fish cave. The waterfall and the cave are a drive away from each other but are both covered by the same national park ticket, so make sure to keep the ticket if you decide to visit the fish cave later.

The waterfall is nice enough and it’s on the way to the next attractions so it’s easy to fit into the itinerary. You could visit the fish cave before the waterfall, but we decided to save it for the afternoon to break up the return journey to Mae Hong Son.

Stop 4: Pang Tong Royal Development Project, Pang Oung (16.5 km / 32 min)

Sometimes called the “Switzerland of Thailand” because of its lakes and evergreen forests, Pang Oung shows a side to Thailand that you don’t normally see. The place is popular with Thai tourists who come to camp in the park. There’s not a whole lot to do here, but it is really scenic.

Stop 5: Ban Rak Thai and Yunnan-Style Lunch (13 km / 26 min)

If you had to pick just one place to visit in Mae Hong Son, this is it. Ban Rak Thai is a Thai-Chinese village, founded by Chinese refugees from Yunnan Province, China, following the Communist takeover of China.

The area is famous for its tea plantations that line the hills surrounding the central lake. And actually, tea-tasting is a popular activity here – most of the shops that line the main street in Ban Rak Thai will offer it.

You should also try the Yunnan-style Chinese Food. After spending almost an hour walking around Ban Rak Thai, trying to find a good place to eat, we settled on the popular Lee Wine Yunnan Restaurant. We tried to find somewhere else to eat, but most places seemed to be closed whilst we were there – let us know if you have any recommendations. We had their signature pork trotter which comes with mantou (Chinese steamed buns), a tasty tea leaves salad and a selection of their teas.

Finally, head on to Lee Wine Rak Thai Resort. This resort is the most iconic one in Ban Rak Thai and you can visit it for a small fee, even if you’re not a paying guest. It’s nice to walk around the tea plantations and the Yunnan-style buildings, you really don’t feel like you’re in Thailand.

View over Ban Rak Thai with a Chinese-Style pavillion overlooking tea fields
Ban Rak Thai View from Lee Wine Rak Thai Resort
Stop 6: To Myanmar!!! (1 km / 4 min)

Ok, there isn’t a whole lot to see here but if you continue driving up the road from Ban Rak Thai towards Myanmar you will reach the border. There’s a small gate and some guards sitting around as well as an empty hut. You can’t go further than this, but at least you can say you’ve seen Myanmar.

Stop 7: Tham Pla (Fish Cave) (30 km / 50 min)

Tham Pla, the fish cave, gets mixed reviews. But if you paid to go to Pha Sua Waterfall then it’s pretty much free to enter unless you want to buy some fish food. The area around the fish cave is pretty tranquil, with lots of greenery, a river and some temples. The fish go crazy for food, chucking just a little in causes a massive feeding frenzy with the slimy fish sliding over each other to try and get a bite.

Lots of fish in a small watery hole
Tham Pla (Fish Cave)
Stop 8: Sunset at Wat Phrathat Doi Kongmu (20 km / 25 min)

The last stop on this itinerary is Wat Phrathat Doi Kongmu. This wat overlooks Mae Hong Son, giving great views during sunset.

Sunset at two white wats near mae hong son
Sunset at Wat Phrathat Doi Kongmu
Finish: Head Back to the City, Relax and Get Some Food! (2.3 km / 6 min)

After a full day of exploring, you might be pretty drained. We decided to head to the night market next to the main lake for dinner and drinks. It’s quite small but there’s still a decent choice.


Where to Stay in Mae Hong Son?

There are more options to stay in Mae Hong Son than in Mae Sariang. But, only a handful of these properties are located in the city centre which we think is the best option, as you’re within walking distance of the best restaurants.

For Solo Travellers
For Couples

Dorms are not available for any of these hotels, so as a solo traveller you would need a Double Room.

Twin Rooms are available instead of the Double Rooms in each of these hotels for the same price.


Day 4: Mae Hong Son to Pang Mapha (Distance: 81 km / Driving Time: 2 hr)

We originally planned to drive to Pai on this day. But after picking up a hitchhiker who was headed to Pang Mapha, we changed our plans and decided to stay in Pang Mapha once we saw everything the region had to offer.

Mae hong son to pang mapha google maps route
Google Maps Route / Distance: 81 km / Driving Time: 1 hr 46 min
Stop 1: Dekdoi Coffee Jabo (59 km / 1 hr 17 min)

Get some distance in on the route before stopping for a morning coffee break at Dekdoi Coffee Jabo. We found this place after watching a Mark Wiens video on the region. He recommends checking out a noodle shop about a minute’s walk away from this coffee shop. The noodle shop is famous for its views where you can dangle your legs off the edge whilst slurping on some Khao Soi. Unfortunately, the noodle place was closed when we visited, but we still had a great experience and the same view at Dekdoi.

Thai tea at dekdoi coffee overlooking mountains
Iced Thai Tea at Dekdoi
Finish: Pang Mapha (22 km, 32 min)

Days 4 and 5: Pang Mapha Guide

For us, Pang Mapha was just meant to be a short lunch stop and cave tour on the way to Pai. But, when we arrived at Cave Lodge after dropping off a hitchhiker we knew we had to spend at least 2 nights properly exploring the region.

There are a few things you can do in and around Pang Mapha, but the main thing is the caves. And, if you’re here for the caves then there is no better place to stay than at the famous Cave Lodge. This was by far one of the best places we stayed in Thailand, you feel like you’re really in nature, the food is great and they offer great caving tours.

Day 4 Evening Activity: Tham Lot Cave System (Nam Lod)

You probably have plenty of time the day you reach Cave Lodge, so why not check out the Tham Lot cave system. This cave system is a short walk from Cave Lodge but you can drive there if you want. You tour the cave with a guide by lantern light whilst the guide points out various cave formations and says things like “Looks like elephant” or “Looks like boob”.

You then get on a boat to go further into the cave and can see some of the old coffins that make the place famous.

BONUS: If you go for sunset, you can watch the bats flying out of the cave as they wake up to go and feed. Tell the guide that you don’t want to get the boat back through the cave. You can then stay at the cave exit to watch the bats before walking back through the forest to Cave Lodge.

Tham Lot Cave Entrance View
Tham Lot Cave
Day 5 Activity: Take a Caving, Kayaking or Trekking Tour

Cave Lodge is a great place for taking an adventure tour to one of the many caves in the area. For some of the caves, you’re able to rent gear from the lodge and visit them on your own. They also offer organised tours to other more challenging caves in the area that require a guide.

Ask the owners about what they recommend; we went with a group on their “Most Amazing Cave in Thailand” tour, which definitely was the best cave we had seen in Thailand. If you’re not into caving then check out their Kayaking and Trekking tours, or simply just relax with the great scenery.

Finish the day with more delicious food at Cave Lodge.

Deep in a watery cave with cool formations and the caving squad
Most Amazing Cave in Thailand

Where to Stay in Pang Mapha?

For Everyone:

There is only one accommodation in Pang Mapha and that’s Cave Lodge. Seeing as the caving and trekking tours are the main things to do here, it makes sense to go to the Lodge where it began.

  • Cave Lodge – Queen Room with Balcony, ฿730 / £17 / $21
  • Cave Lodge – Standard Twin Room with Balcony, ฿1030 / £24 / $30

Day 6: Pang Mapha to Pai (Distance: 49 km / Driving Time: 1 hr 5 min)

Another short journey which gives you plenty of time to visit the attractions in Pai. Start the day with a tasty breakfast at Cave Lodge before setting off.

Pang Mapha to Pai, Day 6 of Mae Hong Son Loop
Google Maps Route / Distance: 49 km / Driving Time: 1 hr 5 min
Stop 1: Pai Fah Coffee (25 km / 36 min)

You can easily drive to Pai in one journey, but as you’ve probably gathered now we like stopping off at the many coffee shops in the area. Like many of the coffee shops in the area, Pai Fah Coffee has a great view of the surrounding mountains and offers great coffee. A nice place to chill.

Finish: Pai (24 km / 31 min)

Day 6: Pai Guide

There isn’t a whole lot to do in Pai, which for some people is the appeal. We, however, didn’t think Pai was worth spending another day of car rental on so we only stayed one night. If you want a place to chill out away from Chiang Mai, then this is the place for you but honestly, we liked Chiang Mai a lot more.

Day 6 Activities

If you set off at a good time you’ll probably reach Pai by midday, which leaves almost a whole day to explore the area. Pai is like marmite, some people can stay a whole week here, and some people like us are happy just staying one night.

Map of Pai Activities
Google Maps Route / Distance: 31 km / Driving Time: 1 hr
Stop 1: Lunch along Pai’s Walking Street

Start off with heading into Pai town to have some lunch. If you’re into Thai food then you probably won’t be super impressed with the options here as Pai seems to have more westernised options. We don’t really have a place to recommend as where we ate was very mediocre despite the tons of positive Google reviews, maybe that says something about the people that come here. (Ok, I’ll stop with the Pai slander).

Stop 2: Views at Big Buddha Pai

Next head to Big Buddha Pai, a white Buddha statue that overlooks Pai. It’s a short climb to the statue, and once there you get some good views of the sleepy town.

Big White Buddha in Pai at the top of a large staircase
Big Buddha Pai
Stop 3: Some strawberry snacks at Love Strawberry Pai

After, head to Love Strawberry Pai. This is a bit of a random place that we found that serves everything strawberry from jam and shakes to wine and keyrings. It’s not really worth a detour but it’s right next to the next attraction, so why not?

Love strawberry sign with lots of random strawberries
Love Strawberry Pai
Stop 6: The Best Thing to Do in Pai, Pai Canyon

Pai Canyon is probably the best attraction in Pai. The scenery is really cool as you walk along ridges that reach out above the trees. This is a great place for sunset if you want, but we had one more place we wanted to check out. See how far along the ridges you can get, some of the paths are pretty sketchy but most are doable.

Climbing around pai canyon
Climbing around Pai Canyon
Stop 7: Sunset at Yun Lai Viewpoint

If you’re not staying at Pai Canyon for sunset, then head on to Yun Lai Viewpoint for a good sunset view over Pai. It’s a cool place with a similar Chinese feel to Ban Rak Thai.

Stop 8: Dinner at Pai’s Night Market

Finally, for dinner head to the Night Market on Pai’s Walking Street. Unlike the other night markets on the loop and in other parts of Thailand, the one in Pai is pretty meh. But, you can still find some good cheap food here. The curry puffs were a hit and there’s an Indian stall that serves pretty good set meals as well.

Other Activities
  • There are hot springs in the area, but something about the extreme heat in Pai made it seem an unattractive option. Also, the reviews aren’t too reassuring.
  • There are also waterfalls in the area but they’re mostly seasonal, so if you’re here in the dry season then they won’t be too impressive.
  • Pai Land Split is also a good place to visit, but unfortunately, it was closed due to COVID when we visited.

Where to Stay in Pai?

For Solo Travellers
For Couples
  • Budget Option: The Countryside Pai – Standard Double Room with Fan, ฿340 / £8 / $10
  • Mid-Range Option: The Nest House – Standard Double Room, ฿470 / £11 / $14
  • Luxury Option: Reverie Siam – Deluxe Double Room with Mountain View, ฿2700 / £64 / $79

Day 7: Back to Chiang Mai or… Continue with the Mae Salong Loop! (Distance: 179 km / Driving Time: 3 hr 35 min)

It’s the final day of the Mae Hong Son Loop, time to go back to Chiang Mai. But what if I said there was another loop? Most people only have enough time for just the Mae Hong Son Loop, so after Pai, it’s usually time to head back to Chiang Mai. However, what you can do is combine this loop with the Mae Salong Loop, adding on another 4 days. For more information, see the Alternative Day 7 Section below.

Pai to Chiang Mai, Final Day of Mae Hong Son Loop
Google Maps Route / Distance: 179 km / Driving TIme: 3 hr 35 min
Stop 1: A Witch’s House for Coffee (50 km / 1 hr 10 min)

This place looked so weird that we just had to stop here. Coffee We / Witch’s House is a cafe on the way from Pai to Chiang Mai. What makes this cafe unique is its funky and sometimes freaky lifesize witch models that are dotted around the surrounding gardens and forest.

Cafe with a witchy halloween vibe
A Witch House Cafe
Stop 2: Namtok Bua Tong, Sticky Waterfalls (69 km / 1 hr 10 min)

Namtok Bua Tong, also known as Sticky Waterfalls is a popular day trip from Chiang Mai. This 3-tired waterfall is fed by a calcium-rich spring. The water leaves mineral deposits on the limestone rocks, preventing things like algae from growing. The result is a sticky waterfall which you can easily walk up.

You can spend a few hours here exploring the various waterfalls and the surrounding park. Go swimming in the water or try walking from the base of the waterfall all the way up to the top.

Sticky limestone waterfalls
Sticky Waterfalls
Finish: Chiang Mai (59 km / 1 hr 4 min)

Congratulations, you’ve completed the Mae Hong Son Loop! Hopefully, you liked it just as much as us!


Alternative Day 7: Continuing with the Mae Salong Loop and Chiang Dao

On the Mae Salong Loop, the three main towns you visit before heading back to Chiang Mai are Chiang Dao, Mae Salong and Chiang Rai. If you’re planning on visiting Chiang Rai anyway, then why not combine it with some other North Thailand destinations.

If you’re interested in the Mae Salong Loop, check out our guide here!

Pai to Chiang Dao, Day 7 of Mae Hong Son Loop
Google Maps Route / Distance: 174 km / Driving Time: 3 hr 25 min
Stops 1 and 2: Witch’s House and Sticky Waterfalls (119 km / 2 hr 20 min)

The start of this day is still the same as if you were driving to Chiang Mai, so read above for more information on the Witch’s House cafe and the Sticky Waterfalls.

Stop 3: Lunch at Lee Yerm Cafe (18 km / 22 min)

By the time you finish up at the Sticky Waterfalls, it’s probably time for lunch. On the way back to the main road, you’ll pass Lee Yerm Cafe. This place serves a wide range of your usual coffees, smoothies and tea, as well as good food and cakes.

Finish: Chiang Dao (36 km / 37 min)

Congratulations, you’ve finished the Mae Hong Son Loop! Now it’s time for another adventure on the Mae Salong Loop.


Looking for More Things to Do in Chiang Mai?

So you’ve completed the loop and have a few days spare in Chiang Mai. Why not take a cooking class then?

If you’re interested in learning more about Thai cooking classes in Chiang Mai, we have an in-depth review of Asia Scenic’s Cooking School.

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